Is The TDS Level In your Swimming Pool To High?

Is The TDS Level In your Swimming Pool To High?

Is you pool water cloudy?  Are you seeing staining of the pool surfaces? Possibly scaling, hard water or even a salty taste?  Well, if you are experiencing these pool symptoms, there is a good chance your TDS Levels are to high. 

What is TDS in my swimming pool?
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) is a measure of the total of all soluble substances dissolved in the water.  What that means is anything you put in the pool, such as chlorine, chemicals, large swimmer load, poor maintenance and weather can increase the TDS level.   With high build up, the TDS level increases which will result in problems. 
Below are some TDS comparisons. 
 -Distilled water or pure water has a TDS value of 0ppm
 -Drinking water has a maximum TDS value of 500ppm per the EPA standards
 -Standard fresh water swimming pools maximum recommended TDS level is 1500ppm

How often should I check the TDS level?
On average, the TDS should be checked at least once every six months. 
What should I do if the TDS level is too high?
When TDS levels become too high, it is recommended that the pool be drained and refilled or at least replace some of the pool water.  At this point, the pool has been saturated with contaminants.  Even with good chemistry the problem with persist; draining would be the best bet.  However, regular backwashing will help to prevent the TDS from rising too high.
How did my swimming pools TDS get so high?

Many things cause the TDS level to rise.  Every time you add chemicals to the water you are adding solids that will dissolve in the water.  Even if you are using liquid chemical you are adding dissolved solids.  Weather is another factor everything that blows or is washed into the pool leaves behind some form of TDS. Evaporation is another reason for the TDS level to rise.

Lastly is bather load, everybody who enters the pool leaves behind some form of TDS.

What else should I check in my pool on a regular basis?

Every couple of months you should check you conditioner level 30-80 ppm is the recommended range.  Levels over 150 ppm can adversely affect the chlorines ability to sanitize.  Chlorine levels and PH should be checked every couple of days in season and especially after a heavy bather load.  Total alkalinity should be checked weekly.  Many other things should be checked on a regular basis.  If you have a pool here in Las Vegas Call us at Rick the Pool Dude (702)445-1348 for a free chemical analysis of your pool water.

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BE VERY CAUTIOUS WITH SWIMMING POOL CHEMICALS



In yesterday's post about pool basics I told you to be very careful with pool chemicals.  Today I read this article in splash magazine, about an Australian man who was not properly informed on how to handle his pool shock. He is in serious condition in a Sydney hospital. I cannot stress enough how dangerous these chemicals can be.  Mixing together the wrong chemicals can cause fire, explosions and poisonous gasses. 



 SAFETY TIPS FOR POOL CHEMICALS



Never mix chemicals

Never pour chemicals in same spot in pool without waiting at least on hour with pump running

Always have pump running when adding chemicals to pool

If premixing chemicals always add chemical to water never add water to chemical.

Never use a bucket, floater, or chlorinator with a different kind of chemical, even the slightest left behind 

     residue can cause big problems

Always follow the package directions

If unsure about the proper use ask consult a pool professional

Never store chemicals in your house

If storing pool chemicals in a small space such as a storage shed be aware of fumes when opening doors

Avoid storing acid, stabilized chlorine and non-stabilized chlorine together   



 BELOW IS A COPY OF THIS ARTICLE

Backyard pool chemical explosion puts Sydney man in hospital

 by Editor on January 28, 2014

Clinton Maynard in St George Hospital after the incident

Sydney
man Clinton Maynard was hospitalised in a critical condition in
December following an accident mixing chlorine for his backyard swimming
pool.

He was preparing to correct the water of his aboveground
pool with a shock treatment, following advice from his local pool shop
after the pool had gone green.

On the advice of the retailer, he used two kilograms of stabilised granular chlorine and premixed it with water.

He used a bucket that was reserved only for mixing chlorine, and had never been used for other chemicals.

However, he was never told to put the water in first – either verbally by the pool shop, or on the chlorine packaging.

“The
pool had gone green and we went to the pool shop and were advised to do
a shock, add an algaecide and also a flocculent,” says Maynard.

“They
said we’d need to use two kilos of chlorine. The bucket was the same
one we always use for mixing chlorine, and the same mixing stick. We
never use the bucket for anything else and there was nothing else in it
at the time.”

His wife put the chlorine in the bucket and then went to put one of their children to bed.

“About
five minutes later I came and poured the water into the chlorine in the
bucket and started mixing it. Within about 30 seconds to 45 seconds
there was an explosion, and then a series of explosions.

“The
blast was very loud and luckily our neighbours were next door. They ran
over and hosed me off and got my clothes off me. They saved me from
burns and saved my eyesight. They called an ambulance and the paramedics
put a device on my eyes and washed each eyeball with ten litres of
water.”

Maynard was rushed to hospital in critical condition and five others were also injured.

“In
all, six people were taken to hospital. I was critical, but also my
neighbours, my wife, the fire-fighter who hosed me down and the
paramedic all had to go to hospital. That’s how big it was. Even the dog
had to go to the vet.”

Maynard later saw an ophthalmologist who
was surprised that he wasn’t blinded by the incident. In the end, his
eyesight was okay.

“But my lungs were damaged and that doesn’t
reveal itself immediately, because the chlorine fumes affect the lungs a
bit like a bruise. My lungs aren’t 100 per cent but there’s no
long-term damage. I still have a cough but it will come good in a couple
of months.

“I really want to get the message out there that these chemicals are dangerous and need to be handled with care.”

Maynard stresses that he takes full responsibility and I doesn’t blame anyone.

“But
people need to be told how to use it properly. There should be clear
instructions about putting the water in the bucket first, and you should
also get verbal advice from the pool shop at the time you buy the
chlorine, pointing out the instructions and letting you know it can be
very dangerous if it’s not done correctly.”

The fire brigade took
the bottle away and he can’t remember the exact brand of chlorine.
Therefore he can’t check to prove he read the instructions properly, but
from what he recalls, the instructions were pretty vague. He later
checked the instructions on some chlorine packaging in a supermarket
shelf, and says they didn’t have any warnings at all.

The fire
brigade did find some evidence of acid in the mix, but as stabilised
chlorine has a cyanuric acid component, it may be a result of that.

Maynard is a broadcaster for Sydney radio station 2UE, and has been using the airwaves to spread the message of safe handling of pool chemcials.

“I am very lucky to still have my eyesight and not to have permanent lung damage,” he says. “But others might not be so lucky.”





FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT POOL SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE

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To see the full article go to Splash Magazine

SWIMMING POOL BASICS

SWIMMING POOL BASICS

There are several things to consider when taking care of a pool.  With Spring right around the corner, here are a few basics to remember. 

POOL MAINTENANCE IS THE KEY

To keep that pool sparkling clean, the pool should be maintained and cleaned at least once a week. 

A clean filter is a must! 

Debris can builds up from falling leaves, dust (especially in Las Vegas) and miscellaneous travelers.  This causes a strain on the pool systems which can lead to future repairs if not taken care of.  A pool rake or net is necessary to scoop out the floating debris. 

Brush your pool from top to bottom to scrub the tiles.  This will help remove any calcium and dirt deposits.  Keep the brush pointed straight down and make sure to take your time and go around the entire pool.

Give the debris at least a half hour to settle before vacuuming.  The hose needs to be completely immersed in the water before turning on the machine.  If not, air in the hose will damage the vacuum. 

LET’S TALK POOL CHEMICALS

Chemicals should be checked weekly.  Swimming pool pH should be between 7.4 and 7.6.  (Fun fact:  The human eye has a pH of 7.4.  Keeping the pH at 7.4 will prevent eyes from burning.)

What is pH?

pH is a measure of acidity or alkalinity of the pool water.  7.0 is neutral which means that the pool water is free from acid or alkaline.  As the pH increases, so does the alkaline; and as the pH decreases, so does the acidity. 

Chlorine levels should also be tested and maintained at 3 parts per million parts of water.  Maintaining the proper chlorine in the pool will prevent strong odor or skin irritation, which are signs of not having enough chlorine in the water.

GETTING YOUR POOL’S VOLUME

How do I determine the Volume of the pool to determine the proper amount of chlorine to add?

Volume = Length of the Pool X Width of the Pool X Average Depth of the Pool X 7.5.

For Example:  The pool is 20 feet long and 12 feet wide.  The depth ranges from 2 feet to 9 feet the average depth is 5.5 feet.  So the volume is 20 X 12 X 5.5 X 7.5 = 9,900 gallons.  Now that you have the volume of your pool, follow the manufactures instructions very carefully on all chemicals.  Not following manufactures instructions can be very harmful or even fatal.  Therefore always be very careful with pool chemicals.

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FREEZE WARNING

Here is Las Vegas we don't close and winterize pools very much.  So now that the weather is going to be in the twenties for the next week or so here are a few tips that can save you a repair bill.

• Make sure your pump is running at night during the coldest hours I set mine from midnight till six am
• Insulate all valves that are exposed to the elements. This can be done by wrapping an old towel or blanket around it and securing it with duct tape
• If you have a bypass valve for your heater make sure the water is bypassed. Freezing water expands and can cause serious damage to your heat exchanger.
• Make sure your solar system is turned off and drained. 
• If your pool is equipped with an automation system such as a Pentair IntellaTouch  or simular system make sure the freeze protection is turned on.  This will automatically turn on your pool and spa features that have been synced to it to prevent freezing.
• If you have an auto-fill it is connected to vacuum breaker valve. A picture of one is below. These are the most common things to freeze on a pool system.  Make sure it is well insulated. 

 If you do have a problem with freezing or any other pool matter in Las Vegas give us a call for a free estimate. 702-448-2483

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 Even a Clean Pool Can Be a Dirty Pool

When the warm weather arrives, you may start entertaining the thought of swimming in the (perhaps neglected) pool. It can be tempting to look down at a pool full of questionable water and think it won’t hurt to have a quick dip.

Microorganisms, microbes, parasites, germs and bacteria – they’re all essentially another way of saying “bugs that will make you sick”. Pool water, if left unattended, provides a stagnant and increasingly dirty environment that bugs love.

Contaminants

The level of bacteria in the pool is exacerbated by contaminants and environmental conditions, which may include:

• People who have swum in the water before you have left behind dead skin cells, hair, and bacteria they were carrying on their skin, or in their saliva.
• The same applies to pets if they have been swimming in the pool. Pets dig and eat all kinds of things, so if they have been enjoying the pool with you, chances are they have left some bugs behind.
• Organic matter, such as leaves and debris, encourage algal growth. Eutrophication occurs in a backyard pool, just as it does in a natural waterway.
• The water temperature of your pool may encourage bugs. Heated pools or spas, for example, might need more attention, as parasites thrive in warmer water.

Water Maintenance

Water maintenance is the key to avoiding the hazards of microorganisms. If you have an ongoing problem, it may be time to review a few things, including:

• Testing – The pH levels indicate the acidity or alkalinity of your pool water. A neutral pH is ideal for pool water, as anything higher than 8 may cause skin irritations and anything below may affect people’s eyes. Heavy rain and heavy usage of the pool will affect the pH level, so carry out testing and maintenance accordingly.
• Filters or pool pumps/cleaners – Filters, pool pumps, and pool cleaners in isolation are relatively ineffective, but having the right combination is essential. A filter will remove dirt and debris, though its efficiency depends on the horsepower of the pump and the length of time you run the system. Even then, about a third of the pool water will not run through the filter. The filtration system needs to work in conjunction with the chlorinator.

A side note regarding your pool equipment is to take the time to contact your insurer to confirm that they are covered in your home and contents insurance policy. Pumps can be expensive to replace, and may cause problems to other parts of your house or yard if they leak, or if there are problems with its motor.

• Shocking – This is not a description of your pool water. Water that has reached a relatively poor state may need to be “shocked”. Shocking water means adding an extra dose of chlorine, intended to break down the organic compounds that are essentially tying up the existing chlorine and preventing it from doing its job. It isn’t as simple as dumping a bunch of chlorine into the pool, however, so pop into your local pool shop for some advice.

Even though the pool water looks clean and you have done all of the right things to keep it maintained, it is still possible to have contaminated water. Cryptosporidium thrives in the gut, and if there’s been any kind of “number two” accident, in or around the pool, this parasite may be in the water. It is chlorine-resistant, so it can survive even the cleanest pool.

Health Tips

To prevent cryptosporidium and other faecal-borne parasites, such as E. coli, from infiltrating your pool, it is important to follow these few basic tips:

• Change babies as far away from the pool as possible, and wash your hands thoroughly with soap after doing so.
• Wash your hands fully with soap too after your own toilet visit, to prevent taking parasites back with you to the pool.
• Avoid swallowing pool water.

Protecting the health of your family and friends, as well as your own, is vital, so if you have any ongoing concerns with the quality of your pool water, be sure to discuss it with your local pool supplies outlet.

#Pool Service #Pool Maintenance #Rick the Pool Dude #pool Info #pool care
Contents of this article are from home & garden 

History of Pool Cleaners

Automatic pool cleaners have come a long way over the last few years. According to Richard K. Cacioppo author of The History of Pool Cleaners that the first files for such a device was filed in 1798.  A patent however was not issued. John Pattison was issued a patent for his "Cistern and Tank Cleaner" in 1884. In 1912 the first patent was issued for an actual pool cleaner.  It was issued to John Davidson for his "Cleaning apparatus for Swimming Pools and the Like".  There is no evidence that it was ever built.  In 1937 Roy B. Everson received a patent for his pool cleaner.  It was the 1st pool cleaner to resemble today's cleaners.  It used rollers and brushes to create movement.

The 50's saw a large amount of patents issued for pool cleaners.  In 1965 Howard M. Arneson was issued a patent for the Arneson Pool Sweep.  This was the first pressure side pool sweep. Those of you my age might remember one of these in you pool.  It had tentacles that sprayed pressurized water out of them and pressurized water out of a spout in top.

The 1st patent for a robotic type cleaner was issued to Robert R. Meyers in 1967.  Today's automatic cleaners come in 3 major types, pressure side which operate off a return line of the pool pump or a booster pump. Examples of these are the Polaris and the Pentair Legend. The next type is suction side these either connect to the skimmer or a dedicated pool sweep line.  Examples of these are the Hayward Pool Vac, The Pool Cleaner, and Kreepy Krauly. The 3rd type is robotic cleaners that operate independent of the pool's filtration system. Examples of these are the iRobot, Hayward Tiger Shark.

The 4th type that needs to be mentioned is the battery operated hand held vac.  Many consider these a step back in technology.  However they have been very popular with consumers.  I use one on my pool route to clean fountains.  Examples of these are the Pool Blaster and the Watertech Catfish.  Amazingly a patent was not issued for this type of pool cleaner until 2004.